Marble Restoration Fort Myers, Marble Restoration Naples, Marble Restoration Sarasota Florida by Jim Lyell Marble

Do:

Dust-mop floors frequently
Clean surfaces with mild detergent or stone soap
Thoroughly rinse and dry the surface after washing
Blot up spills immediately
Protect floor surfaces with non-slip mats or area rugs and countertop surfaces with coasters, trivets, or placemats

Don't:

Use vinegar, lemon juice, or other cleaners containing acids on marble, limestone travertine, or onyx surfaces
Use cleaners that contain acid such as bathroom cleaners, grout cleaners, or tub & tile cleaners
Use abrasive cleaners such as dry cleaners or soft cleansers

Never:

Mix bleach and ammonia; this combination creates a toxic and lethal gas
Mix chemicals together unless directions specifically instruct you to do so

FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS

Jim Lytell, Inc. Marble and Stone Restoration and Maintenance is dedicated to providing the most accurate and consistent information possible to all of our customers. We know that if our customers are more knowledgeable, they'll appreciate our superior service all the more.

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE IN THE COMPOSITION OF GRANITE AND MARBLE?

Natural stone can be classified into two general categories according to its composition: siliceous stone and calcareous stone. Knowing the difference is critical when selecting cleaning products.

Siliceous stone is composed mainly of silica or quartz-like particles. It tends to be very durable and relatively easy to clean with mild acidic cleaning solutions. Types of siliceous stone include granite, slate, sandstone, quartzite, brownstone, and bluestone.

Calcareous stone is composed mainly of calcium carbonate. It is sensitive to acidic cleaning products and frequently requires different cleaning procedures than siliceous stone. Types of calcareous stone include marble, travertine, limestone, and onyx. What may work on siliceous stone may not be suitable on calcareous surfaces.

HOW CAN I BEST CARE FOR STONE SURFACES?

Floor Surfaces: Dust-mop interior floors frequently using a clean non-treated dry dust mop. Sand, dirt, and grit do the most damage to natural stone surfaces due to their abrasiveness. Mats or area rugs inside and outside an entrance will help to minimize the sand, dirt, and grit that will scratch the stone floor. Be sure that the underside of the mat or rug is a non-slip surface. Normally, it will take a person about eight steps on a floor surface to remove sand or dirt from the bottom of their shoes. Do not use vacuum cleaners that are worn. The metal or plastic attachements or the wheels may scratch the surface.

Other Surfaces: Clean stone surfaces with a few drops of neutral cleaner, stone soap, or a mild liquid dishwashing detergent and warm water. Use a clean rag mop on floors and a soft cloth for other surfaces for best results. Too much cleaner or soap may leave a film and cause streaks. Do not use products that contain lemon, vinegar, or other acids on marble or other calcareous stones. Rinse the surface thoroughly after washing with the soap solution and dry with a soft cloth. Change the rinse water frequently. Do not use scouring powders or creams; these products contain abrasives that may scratch the stone.

Bath, Shower & Other Wet Areas: Soap scum can be minimized by using a squeegee after each use. To remove soap scum, use a non-acidic soap scum remover or a solution of ammonia and water (about 1/2 cup ammonia to a gallon of water). Frequent or over-use of an ammonia solution may eventually dull the surface of the stone.

Vanity Top Surfaces: Vanity tops may need to have a penetrating sealer applied. A good quality marble wax or non-yellowing automobile paste wax can be applied to minimize water spotting.

Food Preparation Areas: The stone may need to have a penetrating sealer applied. If a sealer is applied, be suer that it is non-toxic and safe for use on food preparation surfaces.

Outdoor Pool, Patio, & Hot Tub Areas: Flush with clear water, and use mild bleach solution to remove algae or moss.

CAN I REMOVE STAINS EASILY MYSELF WITHOUT CALLING A PROFESSIONAL?

Yes, but be sure to match the correct cleaning agents needed to remove the stain type.

Oil-based (grease, tar, cooking oil, milk, cosmetics): An oil-based stain will darken the stone and normally must be chemically dissolved so the source of the stain can be flushed or rinsed away. Clean gently with a soft, liquid cleanser with bleach OR household detergent OR ammonia OR mineral spirits OR acetone.

Organic (coffee, tea, fruit, tobacco, paper, food, urine, leaves, bark, bird dropping): May cause a pinkish-brown stain and may disappear after the source of the stain has been removed. Outdoors, with the sources removed, normal sun and rain action will generally bleach out the stains. Indoors, clean with 12% hydrogen peroxide (hair bleaching strength) and a few drops of ammonia.

Metal (iron, rust, copper, bronze): Iron or rust stains are orange to brown in color and follow the shape of the staining object such as nails, bolts, screws, cans, flower pots, and metal furniture. Copper and bronze stains appear as green or muddy-brown and result from the actio of moisture on nearby or embedded bronze, copper, or brass items. Metal stains must be removed with a poultice (a liquid cleaner or chemical mixed with a white absorbent material to from a paste about the consistency of peanut butter). Deep-seated, rusty stains are extremely difficult to remove and the stone may be permanently stained.

Biological (algae, mildew, lichens, moss, fungi): Clean with dilute (1/2 cup in a gallon of water) ammonia OR bleach OR hydrogen peroxide. DO NOT MIX BLEACH AND AMMONIA! THIS COMBINATION CREATES A TOXIC AND LETHAL GAS!

Ink (magic marker, pen, ink): Clean with bleach or hydrogen peroxide (light colored stone only!) or lacquer thinner or acetone (dark stones only!)

Paint: Small amounts can be removed with lacquer thinner or scraped off carefully with a razor blade. Heavy paint coverage should be removed with a commercial "heavy liquid" stripper available from hardware stores or paint centers. Do not use acids or flame tools to strip paint from the stone. Paint strippers can etch the surface of the stone; repolishing may be necessary. Follow the manufacturer's directions for use of these products, taking care to flush the area thoroughly with clean water. Protect yourself with rubber gloves and eye protection, and work in a well-ventilated area. Use only wood or plastic scrapers for removing the sludge and curdled paint. Normally, latex and acrylic paints will not cause staining. Oil-based paints, linseed oil, putty, caulks, and sealants may cause oily stains. Refer to the section on Oil-based stains.

Water Spots and Rings (surface accumulation of hard water): It's best to have a marble professional remove these.

Fire and Smoke Damage: Older stones and smoke or firestained fireplaces may require a thorough cleaning to restore their original appearance. Commercially available "smoke removers" may save time and effort.

Etch Marks (caused by acids left on the surface of the stone): It's best to have a marble professional remove these.

Efflorescence is a white powder that may appear on the surface of the stone. It is caused by water carrying mineral salts from below the surface of the stone rising through the stone and evaporating. When the water evaporates, it leaves the powdery substance. If the installation is new, dust mop or vacuum the powder. You may to do this several Verdana as the stone dries out. Do not use water to remove the powder; it will only temporarily disappear.

Scratches and Nicks: It's best to have a marble professional remove these.

Jim Lytell, Inc. Marble and Stone Restoration and Maintenance
18301 Glades Farm Rd., Estero, FL 33928
Phone: (239) 948-3000 Fax: (239) 948-3001